Boston Terrier Shoes lined up neatly by the door. Baseboards still intact. A TV remote with all its buttons. A couch that looks exactly like it did the day you bought it. That is life with a Boston Terrier who knows what is and is not theirs to chew, and it is absolutely achievable.
Getting there takes a plan. Not wishful thinking, not a spray bottle, not crossing your fingers every time you leave the room. An actual, step-by-step plan you can start today.
First, Understand Why They Chew
Before you can fix the problem, you need to know what is driving it. Chewing is not your Boston being spiteful or dramatic. It is almost always one of three things: boredom, teething, or anxiety.
Young Bostons, especially those under a year old, chew because their gums hurt and because everything in the world is new and interesting. Older Bostons chew because they have too much energy and not enough to do with it.
Chewing is communication. Your Boston is telling you something, and the fastest way to fix the behavior is to listen to what it is saying.
Anxiety is its own beast entirely. Some Bostons, especially those with separation anxiety, will tear through anything the moment you walk out the door. If your dog only destroys things while you are gone, that is a clue worth paying attention to.
Signs Your Boston Is Bored vs. Anxious
A bored Boston will chew slowly and methodically, often working through a single item for a long time. An anxious one tends to be more frantic, hitting multiple objects and sometimes targeting things that smell like you.
Knowing the difference matters because the solutions are slightly different.
Step 1: Boston-Proof Your Space
This is the unglamorous first step, and it works better than almost anything else.
Go room by room and remove anything chewable from your Boston’s reach. Shoes go in the closet. Charger cables get tucked away. Kid’s toys go in bins with lids. Books go on higher shelves.
Think of it as setting your dog up to succeed instead of fail.
This is not a permanent state of living; it is a short-term strategy while you teach better habits. Most owners skip this step because it feels like too much work upfront. Those are also the owners still complaining about chewed furniture six months later.
Pay Attention to the Spots They Favor
Bostons are creatures of habit. If yours always heads to the same corner of the couch or the same chair leg, that tells you exactly where to focus your management efforts first.
Block access to those spots temporarily using baby gates or furniture rearrangement. Not forever. Just while the training takes hold.
Step 2: Redirect Before They Start
Correction after the fact does almost nothing. By the time you are saying "no," your Boston has already gotten something out of the chewing. The moment has passed.
Redirection is about catching them before they commit. Watch for the setup: the sniff, the curious nose-bump against something, the lowering of the head. That is your window.
The second your Boston shows interest in something they shouldn’t have, your job is to hand them something they should.
Keep a chew toy within arm’s reach in every room. The moment you see them eyeing the table leg, cheerfully hand over the toy and praise them when they take it.
Do this consistently enough, and your Boston starts to learn that toys are the thing that gets them praise, and furniture is boring by comparison.
Choosing the Right Chew Toys
Not all toys work equally well. Boston Terriers have strong jaws for their size, so flimsy toys get destroyed in minutes and lose their appeal fast.
Look for durable rubber toys, bully sticks, and rope toys with tightly woven fibers. Rotate them regularly. The same toy every day becomes invisible to your dog, the way furniture becomes invisible to you.
Stuffed Kongs are worth a special mention here. Fill one with peanut butter or wet food, freeze it overnight, and hand it to your Boston when you need them occupied. It buys you serious time.
Step 3: Give Them Something to Burn
A tired Boston is a well-behaved Boston. This is one of the most important truths about the breed and one of the most underestimated solutions to chewing.
These dogs need more mental and physical stimulation than their small size suggests. Two short neighborhood walks often are not enough.
Aim for at least 45 to 60 minutes of combined physical and mental activity daily. That can include walks, fetch, tug, puzzle feeders, or training sessions. Mix it up.
Mental Stimulation Hits Differently
Physical exercise tires the body. Mental stimulation tires the brain. And a dog whose brain is tired is a dog who wants to nap, not redecorate your living room.
Training is one of the fastest ways to accomplish this. Ten minutes of working on "sit," "stay," "leave it," and "drop it" can leave your Boston more worn out than a 30-minute walk.
Sniff games work beautifully too. Hide small treats around the house or yard and let them hunt. It activates a deep, instinctual part of their brain that is incredibly satisfying.
Step 4: Teach "Leave It" Until It Is Bulletproof
This command is non-negotiable. A solid "leave it" gives you the ability to stop your Boston mid-approach before they ever make contact with something they shouldn’t.
Start simple. Hold a treat in your closed fist. When your Boston sniffs and paws at it, wait. The moment they pull back even slightly, open your hand and give them a different treat from your other hand.
Repeat this until they back away from the closed fist immediately. Then progress to leaving treats on the floor, then to real objects, then to high-value distractions.
"Leave it" is not a command you teach once. It is a skill you build slowly, one layer at a time, until it works even when the stakes are high.
Practice in the Real World
Once your Boston understands "leave it" in training, start using it in real situations. Walking past a chewed shoe on purpose and cuing "leave it" when they approach is far more valuable than any training session with fake props.
Practice it daily. Make it a game. Celebrate every time they choose to listen.
Step 5: Manage the Alone Time
If your Boston chews primarily when you are gone, the approach shifts a little. You cannot redirect or reward behavior you are not there to see.
The answer is management paired with enrichment. Before you leave, make sure they have been exercised, have access to appropriate chew toys, and are in a space where they cannot access their favorite destruction targets.
Crate training is a powerful tool here, if introduced gradually and positively. A crate is not a punishment; it is a safe space. A Boston who is comfortable in their crate will often rest quietly while you are out instead of hunting for things to chew.
When to Consider Separation Anxiety
If your Boston is destructive, vocal, or shows signs of distress every single time you leave, chewing may be a symptom of something bigger. In that case, basic management will only go so far.
Working with a certified dog trainer or veterinary behaviorist can make a dramatic difference. There is no shame in getting extra help for a dog who genuinely struggles with being alone.
Step 6: Stay Consistent (Seriously, Stay Consistent)
Every person in your household needs to follow the same rules. If one person lets the dog chew on an old shoe as a toy, you have just taught them that shoes are acceptable targets. They cannot distinguish "old shoe" from "new shoe." To them, a shoe is a shoe.
Consistency is the variable that separates owners who get results from owners who stay frustrated. The training itself is simple. Sticking to it every single day is the part that requires real commitment.
Be boring about it. Same rules, every day, from everyone in the house. Your Boston will catch on faster than you think.