Two households, same breed, wildly different mornings.
In the first, a doorbell rings and the whole place erupts. The dog is airborne off the couch, barking at a pitch that could crack glass, and nobody hears the delivery driver ask for a signature. Dinner gets eaten standing up because somebody has to hold the leash.
In the second, the doorbell rings and a low-slung little sausage lifts her head, gives one warning woof, then trots to her mat because that’s what the doorbell has always meant.
Same breed. Same stubborn hound brain. The difference is that the second owner knew what was coming and started working on it before it calcified into a habit.
That’s the whole game with this breed. Dachshund behavior problems aren’t random, and they aren’t a character flaw in your dog. They’re predictable outputs of a badger-hunting brain living in a two-bedroom apartment.
Here’s what shows up most often, why it happens, and what to do about it while it’s still fixable.
Barking That Never Seems to Stop
Ask any longtime owner what surprised them most and you’ll hear some version of the same thing: nobody warned them about the volume.
These dogs were bred to work underground, out of sight, in tunnels. Their handlers needed to know where they were and whether they’d found something. A loud, persistent bark wasn’t a bug in the design. It was the entire point.
So when your dog announces the mail carrier, a leaf, and a suspicious cloud formation, she is doing excellent work by 300-year-old standards.
Figure Out Which Bark You’re Dealing With
Not all barking has the same fuel source, and treating them all the same is why most people fail at fixing it.
Alert barking is triggered by something specific: sounds, movement, people at the window. Demand barking is aimed at you and usually means she’s learned that noise produces snacks, attention, or a lap. Boredom barking has no target at all and tends to happen when she’s been alone and under-stimulated for hours.
Watch for three days and note what precedes each episode. The pattern shows up faster than you’d expect.
What Actually Works
For alert barking, manage the environment first. Block the window view with frosted film, move her bed away from the front door, and use a white noise machine during high-traffic hours.
Then teach a job that competes with barking. "Go to mat" is the classic, and it works because a dog on a mat with a stuffed chew is physically not barking at the window.
A dog who barks at everything isn’t being defiant. She’s answering a question nobody trained her to ignore.
For demand barking, the fix is harder because it requires you to change. Every single time you respond to the noise, you’ve paid for the behavior. Wait for two seconds of quiet, then reward that instead.
Housetraining Struggles That Drag On for Months
There’s a running joke among owners that this breed is impossible to housetrain. It isn’t true, but it’s close enough to true that the joke keeps circulating.
A few things stack up here. Small bladders. Low ground clearance, which means wet grass and cold pavement feel genuinely unpleasant. And a strong preference for doing things on their own terms.
Add a rainy week and you’ve got a dog who has decided the hallway rug is a perfectly reasonable alternative.
Tighten the Schedule Before Blaming the Dog
Most housetraining failures are scheduling failures. Puppies need out every hour or two while awake, plus immediately after eating, drinking, waking, and playing.
Adults who regress usually got promoted to full house freedom too early.
Shrink the world back down. Crate, exercise pen, or leash tethered to your belt, then expand access again only after two clean weeks.
Make Outside Worth Her Time
Reward on the spot, outside, within three seconds. Praise delivered back in the kitchen teaches her that coming inside is the good part.
If weather is the sticking point, buy the sweater and clear a patch of covered ground. Sounds indulgent, works anyway.
Separation Anxiety and the Velcro Dog Problem
This breed bonds hard. That’s most of the appeal, and it’s also the source of one of the most difficult issues to unwind.
A velcro dog follows you room to room and gets uneasy when a door closes between you. Genuine separation anxiety is a different animal: panting, drooling, destroyed door frames, nonstop howling, sometimes injuries from trying to escape a crate.
The first is a management issue. The second needs a real plan and often a professional.
Practice Absence in Tiny Doses
Start absurdly small. Walk to the kitchen, come back before she has a chance to worry, and repeat until the whole thing is boring.
Then build: thirty seconds behind a closed door, two minutes, five, fifteen. Progress isn’t linear, and pushing past her threshold sets you back further than you gained.
Decouple your departure cues too. Pick up your keys and sit down. Put on your shoes and make coffee. Do it enough that the rituals stop predicting anything.
Anxiety doesn’t respond to reassurance. It responds to repeated, low-stakes evidence that the scary thing was never scary.
Fill the Time
A frozen food-stuffed toy given right as you leave gives her twenty minutes of work and a positive association with the door closing.
Leave it for departures only. If she gets it every afternoon, it stops meaning anything.
Digging, Burrowing, and the Destroyed Couch Cushion
Every blanket in your house will eventually be arranged into a nest. This is not a training problem.
Burrowing is hardwired. The breed was built to go into holes after animals that did not want to be found, and that instinct doesn’t switch off because you bought a nice sofa.
The goal isn’t stopping it. It’s aiming it somewhere you don’t mind.
Give Her a Legal Outlet
A covered bed with a hooded flap satisfies most of the urge indoors. Snuffle mats work well too, since scattering kibble into fabric turns nose work into the reward.
Outside, a sandbox in a corner of the yard with a few buried toys will pull her off your flowerbeds within a week or two.
Bury something good in it while she watches. That’s the part people skip.
Leash Reactivity and Small Dog Bravado
Watching a twelve-pound dog lunge at a German Shepherd is funny exactly once, then it starts to feel dangerous, because it is.
Reactivity in small breeds usually gets laughed off or picked up and carried away from the trigger. Neither one teaches anything. The dog just learns that big feelings produce big reactions from you.
Work Under Threshold
Find the distance at which she notices another dog but can still take a treat. That’s your starting line, and it might be a full block away at first.
Feed steadily while the other dog is visible. Stop when it’s gone. Repeat across dozens of short sessions until the sight of a dog predicts chicken instead of conflict.
Closing that distance too fast is the single most common mistake, and it undoes weeks of work in one bad encounter.
The dog on the end of your leash isn’t picking a fight. She’s trying to make something scary go away before it gets close.
Resource Guarding Over Food, Toys, and You
Stiffening over a bone, a hard stare from the dog bed, a low growl when someone reaches for her chew: these are early warnings, and they deserve immediate attention.
Never punish a growl. A growl is information. Punish it enough times and you get a dog who skips the warning and goes straight to teeth.
Trade Instead of Take
Approach with something better, drop it, and walk away. Over and over, until your presence near her stuff reliably predicts an upgrade rather than a loss.
Feed in a quiet spot where nobody walks past. Pick up high-value chews when guests are over rather than testing whether today’s the day it goes wrong.
Guarding directed at people, especially children, is worth a call to a certified behavior consultant early. It’s one of the few issues that tends to get worse on its own rather than better.
Stubbornness, or What Everyone Calls It
The word gets thrown around constantly with this breed, and it’s mostly a mislabel.
Independent scent hounds were bred to make decisions alone, underground, without waiting for instructions. Recall competes directly with a nose that has just found something interesting.
She isn’t ignoring you. She’s outvoting you.
Pay Better Than the Environment
Dry biscuits don’t beat a rabbit trail. Real chicken, cheese, or freeze-dried liver might.
Keep training sessions to five minutes, end them while she’s still into it, and practice recall on a long line before you ever trust it off leash. Reward every single recall for the first several months, no exceptions, because one unpaid return teaches her the whole thing is optional.